Cheese has been a national French food for as long as people can remember and France is well known for its quality and variety of cheese. In fact, over 350 cheeses are documented as being produced by France.
General de Gaulle once quipped “How can you govern a country that has 246 varieties of cheese?” What he probably meant by this memorable witticism is that France as a country is as diverse as its cheeses – or vice-versa.
History of Cheese
Cheese is thought of as being one of the most ancient forms of manufactured food. In ancient Sumerian writings dated around 3000 BC there is evidence referring to around 20 soft cheeses. There has even been the remains of cheesemaking equipment found in Egypt and Europe that appear to be from around 3000 BC.
Cheese and cheesemaking is referred to in the Bible’s Old Testament, in a treatise on farming written in AD 60-65 and in records of Caesar’s travels proving it has been a very early form of food.
Artisanal (artisan) cheese refers to handmade cheese as compared to industriel (factory) or fermier (farmhouse) cheeses. Artisan cheese is usually not sold in supermarkets as the large stores rely on a quick turnover and are best at selling large amounts of uniform produce.
Finding Cheese at Markets
Fresh produce markets are the best place to find artisanal and fermier cheeses. Often local cheesemakers will have their own stall at these markets full of their cheese and other regional varieties.
An important part of the cheese making process is the affinage (curing and maturing) stage. The length and method of affinage can make a big difference in the final texture and taste.
Let’s look at some of the main cheese groups with a couple of examples in each. These groups are organised by their production method and type of pâte and rind.
Fresh Rindless Cheeses
These are kneaded and shaped but have not had any affinage.
Boursin belongs to this category.
Soft Cheeses (also called unpressed)
Soft cheeses can be grouped according to what kind of rind they have.
White mould soft cheeses include Camembert and Brie.
A washed rind soft cheese is Munster.
Soft cheeses that have a natural mould are Chèvre de la Loire and Chèvre de Coin.
Blue Cheeses
Blue cheeses are soft cheeses that have veins of blue mould.
Roquefort and Persillé are examples of blue cheese.
Pressed cheeses
Pressed cheese are ones that have been put into a press to expel water.
The mature pressed cheese will be either semi-hard or hard depending on how much pressing it has had.
Semi hard cheeses
A couple of semi-hard cheeses that have natural mould are Saint-Nectaire and Cantal.
A couple of semi-hard cheeses that have a washed, rubbed and waxed rind include Beaumont and Port-du-Salut.
Hard cheeses
Comté and Beaufort are both cheeses that have been pressed during affinage.
