Beaune – What to See and Do

Beaune - What to See and Do

The Burgundy Town with a Rich Wine Heritage

Lying in the hills of the Côte-d’Or department, Beaune is a thriving old walled town that is considered to be the capital of Burgundy wines. It's in the heart of Burgundy's famous vineyards Pommard, Corton-Charlemagne, Romanée-Conti, Meursault, Santenay and Savigny-les-Beaune and the town has a rich wine heritage of its own.

The area was settled by the powerful rulers, the Dukes of Burgundy. It was them that founded the Hospices de Beaune around 600 years ago. Beaune is a charming town that attracts lots of visitors and in this post I share the best of what to see and do.

Visit the Église de Notre-Dame

The Église de Notre-Dame dates mainly from the 13th century, and has beautiful Gothic additions (portal and chevet) and a Renaissance bell tower. As well as wandering around the exterior of the church, you can explore the choir which has a 12th century statue of the Black Madonna.

The remarkable collection of 15th century Tournai tapestries depicts scenes from the life of Mary and is also a highlight. Make sure you check the times you can visit the tapestries before heading to the church as they are not always available to view.

Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu

The jewel in Beaune's crown and one of Burgundy's gems, is the ancient hospital for the poor, the Hôtel Dieu or Hospices de Beaune. It was founded in 1443 by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin who donated a large sum of his own money to build the complex just as the town was coming out of the 100 Years War. The Middle Ages hospital with its cobbled courtyard, decorated roofs, arcaded buildings and complex of chapel, apothecary and vineyards, is one of France's most prestigious historical monuments. I'm told you'll see why the complex attracts so many visitors once you explore it for yourself - my mother-in-law absolutely adored this monument and her photos were amazing.  

The former hospital and almshouse is most famous for its flamboyant Gothic architecture, its turrets and pitched rooftops covered in colourful geometric-patterned tiles and its vineyard museum. The Hospices de Beaune is also famous for its 60 hectare wine estate which produces prestigious wines. 

All around the courtyard, you'll notice the buildings that ruled the life of this charitable institution. There is the Great Hall of the Poor (more below) where the sick were welcomed in, the kitchens with their huge Gothic chimneys where meals were prepared and the apothecary with its mortar and earthenware pots, which was under the control of the sister pharmacist.

Location: Musée de l’Hôtel-Dieu, Rue de l’Hôtel-Dieu, 2100 BEAUNE

Visit the Hospices de Beaune website for tickets to see the hospice complex including The Great Hall of the Poor, the 18th century Pharmacy and the Last Judgement. https://www.beaune-tourism.com/discover/the-hospices-de-beaune

La Grande Salle des Pôvres (The Great Hall of the Poor)

As part of your tour of the hospital complex, make sure you see the Grande salle with its barrel-vaulted ceilings. This great hall was where the poor and sick were treated in their beds by the nuns.

The hall has been well preserved and there are signs to read for more information about the work carried out by the nuns and the lifestyle of those that cared for the sick.

18th Century Pharmacy

Visit the 18th century pharmacy in the Hospice de Beaune complex where the nuns prepared treating potions for the sick. The apothecary or pharmacy houses a huge collection of earthenware pots from Franche-Comté filled with all manner of contents. It might seem a bit shocking when you read some of the ingredients, but remember, we are looking back at a time when illnesses were treated with herbs, fish guts, powder, burnt sponges and all sorts of unbelievable ingredients. The task of creating these potions (some believed to be magical) was part chemist, part religious and a lot of physical work.

As you tour the Pharmacy you'll see the pulley system used to move the heavy pestle (weighing in at 6 kilograms), the cooking stills, pill moulds, scales and other equipment associated with hand-making potions and pills. 

The Last Judgement multi-panelled polyptych

First, I answer the question you may have of what is a polyptych. Polyptychs are paintings that are painted and divided by sections or panels. They were most commonly created by early Renaissance painters and you'll find the majority of them were created to decorate altars in churches and cathedrals.

The one that decorates the Beaune Altar is named 'The Last Judgement' and is made up of 15 paintings on nine panels. Six of these panels are painted on both sides so that the panels can be hinged open to display a different scene. Created by the 15th century Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden, this multi-panelled polyptych portrays the last judgement. 

Vente aux Enchères des Vins des Hospices de Beaune

If possible, you may like to time your visit to the Hospice on the third week in November so that you can experience what many consider to be the grandest of the many wine festivals in the Côte-d'Or. 

The Vente aux Enchères (the Auction) festival continues over three days and involves the produce from 61 hectares of vineyards being auctioned. The proceeds of the auctioned wine are donated in the aid of medical research and in the conservation of the Hôtel Dieu.

Marché aux vins

You might like to sample wine at the wine market in the deconsecrated church opposite the Hospice while in Beaune. The cave (or wine store) offers self-guided tours or guided tours of the cellar and tastings. You can choose tastings from three to 11 great burgundy wines. The visit is also an opportunity to learn more about the burgundy vineyards, the grape varieties and the classification system.

Shop the boutiques

Shopping in character filled towns can be a very nice way to spend an afternoon and Beaune has a number of speciality boutiques I'm told.

If you've a sweet tooth and love gingerbread, then head to Mulot & Petitjean. It's a family business and faithful to traditional methods of production that have been passed down from generation to generation. Their gingerbread is still handmade with carefully selected ingredients - delicious! You'll find the store at 1 Place Carnot, 21200 Beaune.

Védrenne is a boutique seller of fruit liqueurs and unique spirits that cater to the discerning drinker and is located in a beautiful old building at 28 Rue Carnot, 21200 Beaune. 

Visit the Beaune Tourism Office for more information and details of hotels and restaurants in the area  https://www.beaune-tourism.com/

Pin to help plan your next trip to France 

Related posts and more to read