Best Things to See in Guingamp, Brittany
Today I'm going to share what I love about Guingamp and the best things to see in this attractive town in the north western region of Côtes d'Armor, Brittany. Guingamp is the closest town to my little village and where we do our regular supermarché (supermarket) shop, go to the weekly fresh food market and purchase clothes, do banking, visit hairdresser etc. We know the town very well and fell in love with it the moment we first walked its ancient cobbled streets.
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Great crêperies, cafes and restaurants to enjoy in Guingamp
Guingamp is old - once was fortified type old! You can still see some of the fortifications and many fine timber-framed houses, particularly around Place du Centre (the town centre). The name Guingamp is said to mean, in the druid cosmogony, 'white camp' and apparently signifies a spiritual centre.
Guingamp, situated on the banks of the Trive, had to protect itself very early on. Odo, the brother of Duke Alan III, built the first castle mound. In the 11th century, an enclosure was built to protect tradesmen and artisans. You can go back to the origins of the town at the 15th-century fort and its towers, erected by Pierre de Penthièvre in the centre of the prosperous town.
Fortified Walls, Half-Timbered Houses and Granite Residences in Guingamp
The town has the mixture of the fortified walls (which you can walk around), the half-timbered houses which demonstrate the know-how of the famous Guingamp school of master carpenters and impressive granite residences that were built on the back of the prosperous textile industry in the region. It is said that gingham fabric was produced in the town and this is how the town became called Guingamp. Many other towns in this region also made a name for themselves and prospered on the back of the textile industry because they were located beside rivers or lakes. The charming town of Quintin became famous for its high quality linen, exporting it worldwide.
The town also had a mill along the river which added to its trading prosperity. This town takes you through the centuries with its buildings. Shops and cafes are now in the half-timbered houses, professional services such as optometrists, osteopaths and doctors operate out of the granite residences and the old castle is enjoyed by school education groups and visitors.
Guingamp with Pierre II Castle and Basilica of Our Lady
Château de Pierre II
Built in the 12th century, this ancient fortress was part of the fortifications to protect the town. It was largely demolished and rebuilt in the 14th century by Pierre II, Duke of Brittany, which explains the name of the castle. The chateau still retains a large amount of the ramparts and parts of several of the original towers. You can walk around the ramparts and there is a new museum and carpark for visitors' cars.
A new addition to the town is a modern sculpture by Cyrille André which is installed beneath the castle walls adjacent to the carpark on Place du Petit Vally. (See in above photo the carpark, museum building near the ramparts and the modern Surveyor Sculpture from a bird's eye view.)
Sculpteur de l'Arpenteur (Surveyor Sculpture)
Sculpteur de l'Arpenteur, which looks like a character from a superhero movie with a large cloud on his head was installed on 12 June 2018. Cyrille André is a sculptor from Marseille and his contemporary Sculpteur de l'Arpenteur artwork is one of three modern works of art planned for the town.
The statue is tall, really tall with a height of about four metres and the overhanging cloud is interactive. Water drops from the cloud like rain onto the concrete pad underneath. After its installation we had some fun posing underneath the cloud getting dripped on from above. I goofed around in the dripping water pretending my head was exploding full of ideas and my mind was in the clouds for a family photo!
Basilica Notre-Dame de Bon-Secours
Dominating the skyline of Guingamp is the beautiful Basilica Notre-Dame de Bon-Secours. It has seen building works since the 11th century, but there are only a few fragments around the transept remaining from these original building works. Almost every century since then has seen some modifications to the building.
The north part of the nave and the clocktower are among the oldest parts of the basilica and date from the 13th century, the choir area from the 14th century and the chevet from the 15th century. In the 16th century the south side-aisle was completed and the Renaissance Tower was built and in which you can clearly see the renaissance style of the time.
World War II and the Basilica Notre-Dame de Bon Secours
A major restoration was undertaken in the 19th century, and the spire was rebuilt after being destroyed during the second world war. The stained glass above the Porte au Duc was damaged during the war also, so what you see now is the 20th century renovated window.
Guingamp was invaded by the German army on June 18, 1940, the same day General de Gaulle was called up. It was then under occupation for four years with the Germans quickly invading and taking over the city. The garrison settled in the Institution Notre-Dame, the Kreiskommandantur Soldatenheim in the Bolloc'h hotel (now Crédit Agricole), the Kommandantur in the rue de la Gare and the headquarters of the Gestapo were set up in the current rue des Martyrs de la Gestapo, behind the current Prévert1 college.
We'd been visiting Guingamp for ten years before I learnt of this occupation, but once I learnt about it, the next time I drove into town I went in search of these locations. We often park near Crédit Agricole and it was interesting to look at these places with new information.
Building Stages of the Basilica
The principal building is in the gothic style, with tall and pointed stone arches separating the different parts of the church. Like many churches in Brittany, the flying buttresses have become an element of internal decoration, rather than an external support as usually seen in gothic churches, which makes the inside very attractive.
There are several chapels in the basilica. The principal chapel, and a reason that many visitors come here, is the Chapel of the Black Virgin on the north side of the basilica. The statue of the black Virgin and infant Jesus is ancient although its origins are unclear.
Labyrinth at Guingamp
Labyrinths have always intrigued me and seem to be shrouded in mystery (read my article about the labyrinth at Chartres Cathedral). I love finding a church or ancient garden with a labyrinth and try to walk their path while recalling historical facts relevant to the location and labyrinth. The labyrinth at Guingamp is in Notre-Dame de Bon-Secours Guingamp and is part of the mosaic floor. It is made from marble and is supposed to remind you of the difficult path that must be followed to reach spiritual enlightenment.
In the Middle Ages, they were built into the floors of Europe's cathedrals, where people walked their concentric, curving patterns, sometimes on the knees, to symbolise pilgrimages or repentance. - The Morning Call
Fountain of La Plomée
At the top (south) end of Place du Centre you can see Fontaine de la Plomée, an impressive fountain. The word Plomée is derived from the Breton word for water-source - what a perfect name for a fountain!
Constructed in the 15th century and transferred to its current location in the 16th century it was the principal water source for the centre of Guingamp from the 16th century until early in the 20th century.
The fountain is designed with three large water basins, with a statue of a woman on the top. It's suggested that the statue represents the Celtic god called Anne. Watching kids play with the water in summer while sitting outside at a nearby cafe is nice way to spend a bit of time too.
Kayak Club of Guingamp - Canoë Kayak Club Guingampais
A regular outing for us, and something I recommend doing in Guingamp is visiting the Kayak Club headquarters (in the old city mill) and seeing if there is any training or competitions you can watch on the River Trieux. Even in winter competitors and students often train and have lessons on the river.
River Trieux is the training area for the Guingamp Kayak Club
Just up from the club there is a reach, a calm body of water on which a slalom course of about twenty gates is set up. There is also a 'vein of water' at the level of the mill (see second below photo) which has twelve slalom gates set up. The water flow can be controlled by the nearby flood gates to adjust the level of difficulty for the kayakers.
Elevated boardwalks that run along the River Trieux are perfect for watching the birdlife and following the kayakers as they make their way up and down the river. The boardwalks are near enough to the centre of town to take a stroll after a delicious meal and glass of wine. Mussels in white wine and local cider are a firm favourite of my husband and I when we dine out in Guingamp.
River Trieux is the training area for the Guingamp Kayak Club and has elevated boardwalk along the River
From Place du Centre take the very narrow passageway Ven du Moulin de la Ville down to the river, where you will then be able to see the river, the Kayak Club and the start of the elevated boardwalk.
Mairie de Guingamp
The Town Hall of Guingamp (Mairie de Guingamp) is an impressive 19th century building which used to be an Augustinian monastery. It's easy to find on Place du Champ au Roy and worth taking a look at. Watching the boxed floral arrangements that hang on the fence change over the seasons is something that we enjoy. Look out for the floral displays around the Town Hall when you visit Guingamp.
Behind the town hall is a beautiful park with four significant trees that are registered in the Jardin Public Commandant Billot. The trees are a Giant Sequoia, a Monterey Pine, a Ginkgo and a Chilean Plum-yew. To read an in-depth history of the town and its surrounds, the website Patrimoine de Guingamp (Heritage of Guingamp) is an excellent source of information (in French).
As you can see Guingamp is a great town and we feel lucky to live so close to it. I hope my recommendations of what I think are the best things to see in Guingamp help you enjoy your next visit.
Annette picking up some flowers for the garden on market day
Market Days in Guingamp
Guingamp has two markets each week. At the time of writing, each Friday there is an excellent market on the top square that bustles with people, wafting smells of fresh bread, local seafood, and takeaway paella and other delicious foods. You'll find cheese stalls, sausage sellers, carpet vendors, and stalls selling clothes, baskets, shoes, flowers, vegetables and even curtains and fabric. French market baskets swing happily on the arms of shoppers and everyone seems in the mood for a chat.
On Saturday a smaller market is held on the lower town square near Fontaine de la Plomée with some of the same stall holders setting up again and enticing the weekend visitors to try their food and take some goodies home.
Useful Addresses
Guingamp Tourist Office: 2 Place du Champ au Roy, 22200 Guingamp, France
Mairie de Guingamp (Town Hall) address: 1 Pl. du Champ au Roy
Canoë Kayak Club Guingampais address: 10 Ven. du Moulin de la ville, 22200 Guingamp
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