French Walking Tours in Aix-en-Provence, France

Aix-en-Provence, also know as La Ville des Fontaines (The City of Fountains)

I was blown away by the elegance of Aix-en-Provence, this trip. Having spent only a short time on a previous visit, I had been put off thinking it was too big and impersonal. However this recent trip has changed my mind and I have now discovered a new city to enjoy (perhaps it was that my chéri (love) was with me). 

Our aim this tour was to clock up as many steps as possible and that we did in the first afternoon!  Vieil Aix (the Old Town) is best to be visited as a flâneur (wanderer), strolling the charming streets and squares  without purpose, merely enjoying the visual feasts. 

Starting at Cathédrale Saint-Saveur we admired this unique monument because it was built over a large span of time, from the 5th to 17th century providing stunning examples of Roman, Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles.

On my last trip I was mesmerised by the charm of the Place d’Albertas and its beautiful fountain dating from 1862 edged with wrought iron embellishments, so I was keen to revisit it. Quaint and cobblestoned it has retained a special old world charm. Surrounded by elegant Baroque and Rococo buildings, the square was completed in 1745 for the Marquis d’Albertas and designed in the style of royal squares in Paris.

The highlight of this visit was the marché (market). It was everywhere! [see pic at top of article] We headed to the Cours Mirabeau which is a stunning long boulevard with a huge fountain at one end, Fontaine de la Rotonde, featuring a statue of the Three Graces, bronze lions, and multiple tiers of waterfalls (under renovation) with other fountains dotted throughout its length. There are some works in progress through the city so be patient , as I’m sure we will see the benefits in the future. 

The Market unfolded in a different way in every square throughout the city,  selling fabulous food, Provençal table cloths, pottery , lavender, olives, honey , a stand- alone Flower Market and so much more.

I’m a fan of lingering in a café or a patisserie so I can watch the locals . I love discovering new places but I also love to revisit where I have enjoyed, so de rigeur, a stop off at the quintessentially Aix Brasserie Les Deux Garçons  (I had booked dinner there for the next night to celebrate my birthday with some Swedish friends who happened to also be in Provence).

When touring I love to channel illustrious patrons of such establishments, such as Cézanne, Picasso, Piaf and Camus and I was not disappointed.

Known as the “City of Counts” because the Counts of Provence once lived here, Aix-en-Provence has many beautiful and impressive hôtels particuliers (aristocratic mansions); the most famous of these being the beautiful 18th century Hôtel de Caumont (Centre d’Art). Located in the Mazarin district, the Centre d’Art presents seasonal exhibitions,  and daily screens a film on Cézanne’s life. The Salon de Thé  is a decor lovers delight, particularly for those who want to get into the 18th century French lifestyle! I found the standout feature of this district is the Place des Quatre Dauphins with the Fountain of the Four Dolphins, created in 1667. The square has several private mansions to photograph.

If you are an admirer of Paul Cézanne you might enjoy a visit to Atelier de Cézanne to get an insight to his artistic genius  however, I preferred the atmosphere outside in the garden.

Aix-en-Provence is a University town, du coup (as a result), there are lots of young people having fun at night and the Place des Cardeurs is THE place to go with so many restaurants and bars it’s hard to choose.

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