Lyon - The Best Things to See and Do
Lyon is the third largest city in France and is the capital of the region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. It's the perfect mixture of ancient, old and new, so let's take a look at the best things you can see and do in Lyon.
Lyon once was the capital of the Gauls at the time of the Roman Empire and its prosperity as a seat of importance is still evident today. The city sits between the rivers Rhône and Saône and is a mixture of ancient, old and new and I'm completely under the spell of this city which beautifully blends centuries of culture, people and buildings together.
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Lyon - The 'Capital of Lights'
Lyon has the second largest urban area of France and offers so much variety for the tourist or resident. Honestly, if you told me I had to relocate to Lyon next month, I'd say, "Okay, let me start packing my suitcases and putting the 'For Sale' sign on my home! If I lived in Lyon I would be very happy to be called a Lyonnais (the name inhabitants of the city are called). So, what's so great about Lyon? Read on for the best things to see and do in the 'Capital of Lights'.
Visit Notre Dame de Fourvière of Lyon
The breathtaking beauty of Notre Dame de Fourvière truly has to be seen to be believed. Sounds cliche I know, but true! I simply was not prepared for the majesty and scale of the basilica and after travelling much of France, and visiting many basilicas, Notre Dame de Fourvière has to be one of the most impressive, even more stunning than Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The basilica crowning the hill is described as the Emblem of Lyon and is a UNESCO world heritage site (with over 2,000 years of history) and is listed as a historical monument.
The east-west alignment is a tradition building style and the basilica's architect, Pierre Bossan aimed to create a mystic temple and fortress of faith. Filled with biblical symbolism the outside with its fortress like appearance, with four towers, high crenelated walls and sword bearing angels, showcases faith and power. The inside decor however, displays grace and splendour and can be a surprise after observing the harsher exterior. The majesty and vastness of the interior is what captured my heart.
The Mosaics of Notre Dame de Fourvière
Glowing with extravagant golden mosaics of animals, plants and people, the basilica's walls reflect the sun with an almost etherial divinity. The tiny little tiles that have been crafted into huge mosaic pictures draw visitors from all over the world with depictions of Saint Joan of Arc, the Arrival of Saint Pothinus in Lugdunum, the Dogma of the Immaculate Conception and the Battle of Lepanto. My favourite mosaic though is of the Counsel of Ephesus with Saint Cyril in centre stage arguing with the assembly.
The decorative mosaics are made of glass dyed in the mass and the golden appearance is achieved through an extremely thin sheet of gold leaf layered into the glass using a Venetian technique.
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Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, Lyon
Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste is also called the Primacy of Saint-Jean (which means the seat of the Primates of the Gauls) and is a Gothic cathedral with a stunning Romanesque apse. Built between 1180 and 1440 it has an adjacent choir which dates from around the 10th century and which has become a museum for religious objects. The choir school was where young cathedral clerics of the Choir School lived. The museum is called the Musée du Trésor, or Museum of the Treasury.
The cathedral is open to visitors except when services are being conducted. We were lucky enough to visit when the pipe organ was being played, we presumed in practice for an upcoming service. The sound resonated around us and sitting on the traditional French wooden church chairs in the cool of the cathedral was peaceful and grounding.
Early Christian ruins of the Churches of Saint-Étienne (Saint Stephen) and the Sainte-Croix (True Cross) can be seen in the archaeological garden next to the cathedral. For me, I didn't expect that this garden and its ruins would interest me much, so I chose not to pay the entry fee and go in, but it may be something that interests you.
Useful link
Official Lyon Tourist Office information on Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste
View the Astronomical Clock at Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, Lyon
At the far back on the left of Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste (north transept) is the astronomical clock dating from 1538. It was decorated in the baroque style when it underwent repairs in the 1660s.
The clock has several dials, an automation on the very top and is one of the oldest surviving machines in modern times. The upper dial on the front face is the astrolabe showing the phases of the moon and the rising of the stars on the horizon of the French city.
The top automation shows images according to the day of the week starting with Christ rising on Sunday, Death on Monday, Saint John the Baptist on Tuesday, Saint Stephen on Wednesday, Christ with a chalice on Thursday, a child with a cross on Friday and Mary on Saturday.
The perpetual calendar runs in a 66 year cycle but has not been working since 2017, however there are plans to fix the clock.
Eat At A Bouchion Cafe in Lyon
Lyon has a history of attracting gourmets and visitors to sample its food from the early 19th century so the food heritage of this diverse city is strong. Lyon holds the title a "world capital of gastronomy" which was awarded to the city by the famous food critic Curnonsky in 1935. Foods prepared by "the Lyon mothers", that is, cooks of renown and character like the famous Mére Brezier have been a key influence in the awarding of the title "world capital of gastronomy". Mére Brezier opened her own restaurant in 1921 at 12 rue Royale and became one of the most famous in the city.
A bouchon is a traditional and typical Lyonnais restaurant where local specialities are served in a simple and authentic way. A few dishes that are often included on a bouchon cafe menu include tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), quenelles (dumplings) and salade lyonnaise (salad with bacon lardons, a poached egg and croutons). Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône served in a 'pot' is a popular choice to accompany the food and the 'pot' (pronounced 'po'), at 46 cl (or nearly half a litre) is plenty enough to drink with a main dish.
Unfortunately, the restaurant we dined at, La Gargouille, on Place Saint-Jean and directly opposite the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, is now closed. Sitting in the sun, sampling Lyon's famed food and watching the sun set over the Cathédrale will however remain a favourite memory. I recommend dining at a bouchon restaurant when in Lyon and the tourism office will have details of restaurants and whether bookings will need to be made.
Useful Information
Office du Tourisme et des Congrès de la Métropole de Lyon
Location: Place Bellecour, 69002 Lyon, France - open everyday
Murals of Lyon or Murs Peints
"CitéCréation" is the project name of the collaborative artwork by 12 Lyonnese muralists, and their 60 assistant artists who have painted the walls of Lyon. The murals of Lyon are everywhere, and I mean everywhere around the city and its suburbs - that's probably because there are around 600 painted walls. Have you heard about them? The murals are painted walls that enliven lack lustre buildings and create an overall arty atmosphere while also revealing the identity of each district.
The tourism office says "Every historic district of Lyon reveals its own identity, each being a key element of Lyon's overall cultural identity. Moving from district to district, you will actively participate by crossing bridges of space and time. The history of the city will be revealed through powerful images. By discovering them one by one, you will discover the history of the city."
The History of Lyon in Murals
The muralists have taken the history of Lyon and vertically staged it for all to see. You can drive around the city and from suburb to suburb to find them, but I suggest that you get out and walk around as many as you can once you've driven to them, or you will miss the extraordinary detail captured in each artwork. I bet you'll do a lot of staring up and double-taking as you try and work out what is real and what has been painted. Is that a real dog? Are those flowers fresh on the window sill? How cute is that little girl - oh, no, they're just painted on! I know you're smiling at me, but it's true - sometimes it's hard to tell.
The murals are divided (by the tourism office) into eight quarters of the city and surrounding regions and while you will most probably not be able to see the majority of them, unless you plan to stay for an extended time in Lyon, I would recommend viewing at least a few. La Fresque des Noirettes in Vaulx-en-Velin; La Tour de Babel du Futur and Cité idéale d'Égypte in Lyon and La Bibliothèque de la Cité are a few I particularly liked.
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Lugdunum - Museum and Roman Theatre Ruins
Step back, way back, into Roman times on the Hill of Fourviére, Lyon. The ancient ruins lie on the slope of the hill where in former times the centre of the Roman city of Lugdunum was founded in 43 BC. The two main ruins to see on the site are the grand theatre and the odeon. The grand theatre and the odeon are part of the sector classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
To visit this site is free and you can wander over the theatre steps, through tunnels, take in the expansive view of the city and learn more by reading the information signs dotted around the site.
I've not visited the Museum but with reported magnificent mosaics, sculptures and jewellery to see, and dress up games for children and cooking, it sounds like a great place to entertain the family and escape the heat if you visit Lugdunum in the summer months. The lower entrance tunnels through the hill and is cleverly designed so that the large museum is barely noticeable and does not detract from the ancient ruins - I loved finding the entrance almost by mistake!
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Enjoy Your Visit to Lyon with Friends
The best thing about visiting Lyon for me, was that I spent the time in the city with my good friend Anne, which I think sums up travel completely - no matter how amazing the location, it is best enjoyed sharing with a good friend!
Check out my YouTube Video below of Lugdunum Roman Ruins and Theatre to get a real view of the site.
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