A Breton Tradition - The Onion Johnny
Have you ever heard of an 'Onion Johnny'? It's the name given to Breton farmers and agricultural labourers who travelled on bicycles selling the distinctive pink onions grown in Brittany to their neighbours in Great Britain. Onion Johnnies went door to door selling their fresh produce to anyone who would buy.
Tying the strings of onions to their bikes allowed them freedom to travel about wherever they could make sales and they were a regular sight on the streets of Britain. Travelling from the Channel ports they even made their way regularly to Orkneys and the Shetlands high up north.
The strings were securely tied to their bikes and because they weighed kilos the strings needed to be strong. There is a system to tying the onions on the string with the onions plaited into a tress, in order of size. The largest onion at the end is referred to as penn kapiten – the Captain.
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Daniel Tanguy, an onion seller from Roscoff, Brittany, with road workers near Pont Gwenyn
Roscoff Port and Onion Johnnies
During the heady days of onion trade, Roscoff port in Brittany was a very busy regional port with over one and a half thousand Onion Johnnies leaving from it with their plaited strings of onions to head across the Channel. The Roscoff onions have a pink hue and a distinctive flavour which made them very popular in Britain and of course throughout France, as they still are today. I regularly buy strings of Roscoff onions from my local supermarché and they are the key ingredient in my French onion soup. See photos below from my kitchen and get our delicious French Onion Soup Recipe here.
Maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff
Natacha Adlerfliegel, who runs the onion museum in Roscoff, the Maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff, says this about the Roscoff onion "They smell fruity, have a crisp texture and are very juicy with intense and complex aromas. They are sweet and slightly spicy and great for use in salads.”
The museum was opened in 2004 to provide information on the life and times of Brittany's onion sellers. Five years later the pink-tinged Roscoff onion gained Appellation d'Origine Controlée status, and then in 2013 it was awarded Appellation d’Origine Protégée. You'll find the museum at 48 Rue Brizeux, Roscoff, where you can learn about the history of onion trade, enjoy fresh produce and experience a visit to an onion farm.
A Typical Frenchman - The Onion Johnny
The image of the Onion Johnny with his beret, Breton striped jersey and string of onions became many British people's idea of a typical Frenchman. This image is still one that is celebrated during festivals, in marketing photos of Breton and even souvenir merchandise.
Roscoff comes alive at the annual onion festival, Fête de l’Oignon de Roscoff, in August with music, dancing and food, with the onion taking centre stage of course! Find out more about the festival and the museum Maison des Johnnies et de L'Oignon Rosé.
Brittany Tourism website has more information on the region and the charming town of Roscoff which is listed as a Petite Cité de Caractère.
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