Saint Sulpice is the second largest church in Paris (only second to Notre Dame Cathedrale) and it's just off the main tourist drag along the Seine. Saint Sulpice is worth a visit for many reasons. Here is a brief history, a description of the main areas within the church and some interesting, quirky facts you may not know. As I stay not far from Saint-Sulpice a few times a year when I'm in Paris, I've come to know and love this huge church.
The Second Largest Church in Paris, Saint-Sulpice
Saint-Sulpice was built to replace the village church which was not large enough for its growing district and the surging Catholic revival at the time. Rector Jean-Jacques Olier (1608-1657), Master of the French School of spirituality and founder of the seminary of the Society of the Priests of Saint-Sulpice was the inspired originator of the new church.
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Sulpicians are a unique community of priests whose mission is the teaching of other priests. Building commenced in 1646 and is classical in design. The quality of the furniture, statues and cabinet maker's work from the XVIIth century is stunning and will make your eyes pop because it's everywhere in this huge church.
Contrary to the statement made by author Dan Brown in his book The Da Vinci Code, while the current church is built on the site of the village church, it is not built over, nor did ever exist, an ancient temple on the site. While debate has been strong on this point, archeological investigations prove that it was only a fictional statement made by the author.
When you first see Saint-Sulpice you might notice the strikingly different towers, or if you're like me on my first look, and overwhelmed with the magnitude of this church that seems to rise from nowhere, you'll do a double take and look again too! Yes, they are different in style and height.
Chapel of Our Lady
The Chapel of Our Lady is a place for private worship and the stunning decoration was designed by Servandoni and later also by Charles de Wailly. The statue of the Virgin and Child by Pigalle is in this apse of the church (behind the altar and sanctuary) and was done during the restoration of the Chapel of Our Lady in 1761.
Gnomon
This Meridian Line was drawn in 1743 to provide the exact time of day, to verify the computation of the dates of the moveable Christian feasts of Easter and Pentecost, and also to improve the accuracy of certain astronomical data. A gnomon is really just a marker (a brass stripe on the floor) and they were constructed in many other churches across France for similar reasons (that is, computation of dates).
The obelisk and the gnomen were added to the church during the time of priest Languet de Gergy (1675-1750).
This Meridian Line also features in Dan Brown's book The Da Vinci Code where is is called 'a pagan astronomical device'. 'Rose Line' is the fictional name used by Dan Brown in The Da Vinci Code book and given to the Paris Meridian and to the sunlight line of Saint-Sulpice. It is worth to note that contrary to the belief of many, the gnomen line of Saint-Sulpice has never been known as the 'Rose Line'.
The Grand Organ
The organ was manufactured by Cliquot and installed in the loft in 1781. The organ case was designed by Chalgrin and was renovated and enlarged by Cavaillé-Coll in the 1860's and it honestly takes my breath away no matter how many times I see it. The Gran Organ is famous because of its size and the exceptional quality of its sound.
Ecclesiastical music resonates around the stone walls when the pipe organ gets going and honestly it makes me feel so warm and safe, like in a cocoon. It brings wonderful childhood memories flooding back of attending church and classic orchestral concerts with my music loving parents.
On a Sunday evening attending an evening recital at Saint-Sulpice is often an option. I promise this is an experience you will never forget. You can listen to this famous organ being played by Yves Castagnet (playing Bach's Chorale Erbarm dich mein BWV 721 (October 2016)) below, under the watchful eye of renowned organist Daniel Roth. Look out for the organ stops being set up prior to playing, and the aerial span of the church and organ it's truly fabulous. You'll be able to see all the different sections of the church in the clip too.
Sacristy
This area is bounded by intricate Louis XV period panelling, and is the area that you go to now for information on the church and parish activities. There are guide books, postcards and organ recital recordings for sale and timetables for Mass, guided tours (many that are free) and organ recitals.
As a general rule there are organ recitals on Sundays and High Holy days 15 minutes before the 11.00am Mass, during Mass and for 30 minutes after Mass.
Decorations of the Sanctuary
The decorations (as they are called) are on display between the gnomon and Sacristy and include the stained windows (1670s), statues by Bouchardon (1698 - 1762) and gilded bronze sculptures by Choiselat.
Saint John the Baptist's Chapel
The Saint John the Baptist's Chapel holds the mausoleum of J-B Languet de Gergy, the parish priest who completed the church. The mausoleum was designed by René-Michel Slodtz and dominates the area with a statue of the Saint sculpted by Boizot on top. I recommend an up close look at the statue to see the incredible workmanship.
Pulpit
Golden and eye catching is how I describe the pulpit at Saint-Sulpice. With gilt balustrades and statues it literally glows when when the sun streams in and catches its surfaces and you can see why the faithful believe they are in the presence of ethereal beings when this happens.
Saint Sulpice Chapel of the Holy Angels
Chapel of the Holy Angels
The Chapel of the Holy Angels is directly to your right once you've climbed the steps and entered the church. The massive arched space is filled with paintings by Eugène Delacroix and you really need to take a seat, stop and look upwards to absorb their detail.
The paintings were completed between 1850 and 1861 and include: Jacob wresting with an angel; Heliodorus expelled from the Temple and Saint Michael slaying the dragon.
Fontaine des Quatre Éveques (Fountain of the Four Bishops)
Saint-Sulpice fronts onto Place Saint-Sulpice with the Fountain of the Four Bishops and is a popular square for locals and tourists. The fountain is surrounded by lots of free space and I've always found it a peaceful spot to stop before heading up the road to Jardin du Luxembourg. I'd love to time my visit to Paris when a brocante or book fair is on at the Square because it would certainly liven up and take on a different vibe. Maybe another trip!
I hope next time you visit Paris you're able to visit Saint Sulpice and that you love it as much as I do.
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