Square René Viviani – The Little Park in the Middle of Paris

Nestled in the middle of downtown Paris amongst ancient monuments, the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre Church, stunning Haussmann buildings and the flowing waters of the Seine, is a little park named Square René Viviani. It's bordered by the Quai de Montebello, rue Saint-Julien le Pauvre and rue Lagrange in the 5th arrondissement of Paris, the heart of the Latin Quarter, 

Square René Viviani - The Little Park in the Middle of Paris

Square René Viviani is right opposite Notre Dame de Paris, but is often missed by the general throng of tourists. For that I'm rather glad too, because it's a lovely little park that is mostly quiet, except for its Christmas markets which are well-loved since relocating from Parvis de Notre Dame de Paris since the 2019 fire. We'll see if the markets return to Notre Dame Square later this year.

Why is René Viviani Honoured with a Park Named After Him?

The Square is a tribute to René Viviani who was a French lawyer and politician that lived between 1863 to 1925. Viviani is remembered as France's first Minister of Labour. He also importantly became President of the Council in August 1914, and it was in that capacity that he signed the "General Mobilisation Order" on Sunday, 2 August 1914. 

Not sure what the General Mobilisation Order is? Here's a super quick history lesson. The "General Mobilisation Order" refers to the order issued by various European nations, primarily Russia, Germany and France to fully mobilise their military forces and commence large-scale military operations across Europe. This Order essentially signalled the start of World War I, with the key date being 1 August 1914 when Germany declared war on Russia and France quickly following by ordering general mobilisation on 2 August 1914.

A Brief History on Square René Viviani

Opened to the public in 1928, the park’s official name is actually Square René Viviani-Montebello. The green space is situated on what was, in the 6th century, a cemetery of the adjacent Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre Church. The Church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre (Church of Saint Julian the Poor) is a Melkite Greek Catholic parish church and one of the city's oldest religious buildings. 

The burial ground was then used to house monastic buildings until it was used for outbuildings connected to the Paris Hospital (Hôtel-Dieu de Paris), located just across the Seine River on Île de la Cité. (See photo above) You can still see ancient stone and ruins that speak of this long history towards the back of the Square. 

The Hôtel-Dieu de Paris officially dates back to 829 which makes it the oldest hospital in France and possibly the oldest continuously operating hospital in the world. It still operates today and it's remarkable to think that it was the only hospital in the city until the beginning of the 17th century.

What to Look for in Square René Viviani

Of note in this little park is the tree Robinia pseudoacacia, also known as a black locust or false acacia. It's a very famous tree as it's believed to be the oldest tree in Paris. 

It's history can be traced to when it was planted by Henri IV's gardener, Jean Robin (a French royal gardener), in 1601. The tree is estimated to be around 400 years old and is one of the oldest and most famous black locusts in Europe. Said to still be in good health, even though it lost its upper branches, during WWI, it is supported by two concrete crutches.

There is also a metal grate surrounding it to further protect it. You'll notice the gate, fences and benches as you walk around the Square are all painted green. This is not by accident, but rather by intent - and there's a story behind this. Read why all Paris benches, signs and fences are green - it's a curious story that goes back centuries!

The park has lawns, walkways lined with flowers and shrubs and benches to sit on. When the roses bloom the Square pops with colour and looks lovely.

You'll also see a rather odd-looking fountain, the Saint Julien Fountain, which was erected in 1995 (photos below). The work of French sculptor, Georges Jeanclos (1933-1997). He is described as "one of France's great twentieth-century sculptors. His work is rooted in the traumatic events of the Second World War." - Galerie Capazza

Cherry Blossom in Square René Viviani

Make sure you gaze across to Notre Dame and take photos of the beautifully restored cathedral framed by the trees of the Square. This is especially nice to do during springtime in Paris when you can capture the spring blossom framing Notre Dame in your photos! If you love cherry blossom, then also look out for the blossom trees outside Shakespeare & Company (see below) and Square Jean XXIII of Notre Dame de Paris beside which are both just a couple of minutes walk away. One of my favourite books on Parisian spring blossom is Georgianna Lane's book Paris in Bloom. If you can't make it to Paris this spring, reading this book is the very best next thing!

Things to See and Do Close to Square René-Viviani

Shakespeare & Company Bookstore

As noted above, Shakespeare & Company, probably the most famous of all English bookstores in Paris, is just two minutes walk away. Next door at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, you'll find the treasured bookstore and café of the same name. I've found the café happily sells café à emporter (takeaway coffee), so maybe a little book reading, a hot coffee and a bench at Square René Viviani are the perfect combo!

Odette Paris

For a very sweet and pretty snack to enjoy in Square René Viviani, or instore, you simply must walk the two minutes to 77 rue Galande to Odette for the best choux pastries in Paris. Nestled snuggly in-between other buildings, Odette is charming. If you head up the dark, narrow and steep stairs you'll also be rewarded with amazing views of Notre Dame and Square René-Viviani - perfect!

Notre Dame Cathedral

The park of René-Viviani provides one of the best views of Notre Dame Cathedral that you’re likely to find anywhere in Paris. Frame your photo well during the spring, and you can capture photos of the cathedral’s right tower framed by the blossom that’s in flower in the Square.

Bouquinistes - the  Booksellers Along the Seine

Pick up a non-touristy souvenir at the ancient bookseller stalls along Quai Saint-Michel beside the Seine River. The Paris booksellers, or the bouquinistes, have history and antiquity in spades as they have been setting up their stalls along the Seine since the 16th century. First edition books, newspapers, ancient prints and vintage magazines make wonderful souvenirs of your time in Paris. 

How to Get to Square René Viviani

Closest Metro Stations:

Saint-Michel Notre-Dame (Line  4) or Cluny La Sorbonne (Line 10)

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